Replacing the light seal foams on my camera backs and bodies is fairly simple. Simpler in design and construction than SLR lenses. Rangefinder lenses as they do not have automatic diaphragms and are considerably Not recommended for beginners: I also have a spanner wrench (which you canīuy from MicroTools) to take off the back and front elements to get access to theĪperture blades and inner elements for simple cleaning. I use a new segment of the tissue/microfiber Off with a camel hair brush, blow off as much as I can, then use the ROR+tissues+microfiber to get theįingerprints off. ROR fluid if needed, and Kodak lens tissues. I usually use just a microfiber cloth, some I clean the front and rear elements of my cameras onĪn "as-needed" basis. My own technique is to always use a lens hood and to only clean the lens when They never cleaned their lenses - hence the popularity of "protective" With "cleaning marks" and comparatively few with actual impact orĪbrasion damage. I have a list of recommended repair shops at the end of this page.Ĭleaning is the main way lenses are damaged. Lens 2) replacing the foam 3) calibrating the rangefinder and, 4) regular exercise. There are three type of simple repair jobs that I do myself: 1) cleaning the Before reading this page, checking out a used classic camera fully before buying it is a better preventative solution. But if you find a niceĬamera that's worth $400 and needs $100 in repairs and you can buy it for $200, In good condition, then toss it and go look at the next. If it's a broken shutter or anything serious on a camera that's worth only $150
Many fine units that are great, but need just a bit of tuning up or repairing. If you collect cameras from the 1950s to 1970s like me, you'll come across
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